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Nice work Carl😀 Not too many people can Juggle two models at a time and get great results!!

Hi all, doing fine😀 Some items......... Some Resin aftermarket stuff from Panzer Art,DEF Model, and Black Dog CZ. Sets for Tamiya's Brummbar and a barrel for the Tamiya T-72m1. Also some airbrush parts: A larger (4ml) color cup for a H&S air brush and a trigger upgrade upgrade for an Iwata airbrush. Meant for Iwata's Takumi, this part offers a wider, flat topped option for Iwata Eclipse-based airbrushes. Similar to the triggers on the Custom Micron. Well, that's all😀 Thanks; Paul

That chain reminds me of that on a 1/8 Pocher Fiat I built years ago. The chain rollers were hollow, however, and a small pointed tool was used to create flanges on either side. Looks daunting, but I'm sure you will get it done. BTW, very nice work so far, looking great😀

Hi Rob, i have a MFH Norton 50, a Montgomery and a Vincent waiting but with no plan to start unless i solve the chain problem, I did manage the Brough superior and the Crocker but used a couple of chain sets each to produce a chain. The sets really do vary as well from good to pretty much impossible.

Close to the finish line Carl. You are building two beauties. Cheers Rob

Thank you Carl, it looks a bit worse than it is, because of the LED lighting, which is always a killer with high gloss finishes. BTW: I had to look up Count Rossi, crazy, but it would have rectified my glossy silver paintjob . In all, I´m more familiar with Count Negroni, whom I thank a lot for developing the Americano into the, what else, Negroni 🍸, of course with red Martini in it, albeit, I would never use Martini myself, as there are far better options. Cheers Rob

Thank you Jeroen and amen to the open for all decision with the forum. Car builds are so much fun, even when I´m very distracted and not fully focused on modeling, it is fun. I,m glad, the decals layed themselves beautifully with a big dose of softener. The carrier fil was quite large around and I only chopped the inner and outer side. Cheers Rob

I got one together with a lot of swearing and the chain is stopping me from beginning with my next MFH bike. Building up the segments was relatively easy, but connecting them was a nightmare. I wish you luck Paddy. Cheers Rob

It's a real shame because the PE parts look good.

You might want to put your fingers in your ears for this one I have decided to give one of these MFH chains a go....again. I don't take this lightly, they are £35 each and my success rate is about 1 in 4 with these so a very expensive option. Not a lot of choice in this scale and the rubber band chain supplied is not up to the job. The idea is the PE side plates snap on to the white metal pins to form a chain The reality is the pins are badly deformed and have no pretense of being domed with a tight fit to the PE links as above This side plate should be a press fit 🤥 I really dont know why i am doing this now i look at what i just posted 🤣

Real quality modelling, I'm impressed they look great. Cheers Dennis

Clean and fast.

I grabbed a quick trip to the bench and got the props painted. I then noticed that the prop shaft for the Revell kit should have been installed in the engine. Whoops. I'll just trim it to fit. I painted and installed the MLG doors as well.

A couple mountain bike companies were using magnesium for bike parts in the early '90s. Rock Shox used it to the make the lower fork legs on their Mag 20 (hence the name) suspension forks. When the paint chipped, the corrosion started fast and wasn't pretty. They usually just seize up if you were lucky. Same goes for the Syncros magnesium front hub I had. If you weren't careful when lacing them up, the threads on the spokes could chip the clear coat and they would start to corrode at the spoke hole and cause the flange to fail. Carl

Nice paint and decal work on the body Rob. Looks fantastic. Any thoughts to doing Count Rossi's road going 917 to bookend the race car?

Eh wow. Those wheels.. lovely. This makes me so happy we one day decided not to limit this forum to just aviation subjects.

After a long summer absence, due to traveling, rebuilding my laptop computer, redecorating my cave and other stuff, I managed to progress a bit with the Porsche. I finished decaling the body and clear coated everything with Zero´s laquer clear. First I sprayed an unthinned coat, let it dry for about half an hour, to seal and protect the decals. There followed three more coats, each more thinned with leveling thinner, the last was a ca. 50/50 mix. Despite the drying time, some of the decals got slightly affected by the hot mix, but most of the blemishes could be polished away after two days of drying, using Tamiya coarse and finish polishing paste. The kit decals are uncut in places, so I did the cutting around the doors and around the front air intakes, touching up with surprisingly fitting Brabham BT52 blue (the kit, I built before). Around the doors, I used some panel liner to accentuate. I was debating my decision to clear coat the body, as historical pictures seem to indicate a slightly matte finish, but I will leave it at that. The wheels were sprayed with Tamiya´s lacquer metallic black and then decaled. It needed a lot of strong decal softening solution to get them contoutred well. Cheers Rob

A couple of problems the primary drive chain is of the rubber band type not unlike early tamiya tank tracks. There is no way to attach this to the primary drive sprocket ? the only way around this i can see is to remove the teeth from the sprocket where the chain sits on it. 1/9 scale chains are rare. MFH do one but the pitch is quite different so i would still need to remove the teeth. The carb on this bike had a remote float bowl, you can see above the carb has no integral float bowl. The reason is race bikes drink fuel . The fuel level in the carb is regulated by a float and valve like a lavatory system. that fuel level dictates the fuel level in the carb body above the main jet. If the fuel level varies so does the mixture in the carb body. For this reason the race carbs had a much larger remote float chamber that didn't tend to drain as the throttle was snapped open of held wide open. The kit does have a remote float bowl but nowhere to mount it. they just leave it dangling on the fuel line so this needs to be sorted. This the kit carb I am doing my best above to get this into shape. As i happen to have a suitable carb here on my shelf , you can see the huge float bowl attached to the carb , actually bigger than the carb itself.

Hah! As I'm carefully placing the included pushrods, I have realized that there aren't enough. So,,,,,,,,,, I guess I'll be carefully cutting and sizing styrene rod to make up for missing pushrods.

Nice! As a matter of fact they are all marked Smiths :)

I'd be interested to see if any of these IP parts are branded Smiths. I work for the group that started out making watches and spedos for all sorts of things including aircraft, cars and motorbikes. The scene in the Dambusters when they show watch faces. Smiths watches. 😁

Now the Triplane is finished I'm back to the SE5a Dryfitting all the panels, engine and radiator feels better. I think I screwed something on the cockpit bulkhead. I see other folks builds and it looks like it's standing erect. Mine has a bit of a lean to the rear that required me to thin down the trailing edge of the cockpit cowl, panel. It was making that end of the part stand too tall. Feels better now. letting paints dry and will close up and mask the inspection panels. I'm going to paint and weather to almost the end game on this one. Just seems easier before final assembly. I'm wondering how long i'm going to be on this WnW WW1 kick.

The final instrument arrived today. Also started adding wiring to the wheelbay. This would have been easier if done in an earlier phase :)

Cool😀

It's a fun kit. I built my first one without glue or paint.