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DAs Werk’s Leopard 2A7v

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Posted the start of this on the old forum, before it went down. The intention was see if this kit could be made into a working RC tank. All while trying to retain as much as the kit as possible.

I first investigated whether a propitiatory lower hull could be used, but this would not have been correct, so was dismissed.

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This would have been an easy solution, but why make life easier?

I assembled the hull as per the instructions, after installing bearings for the suspension. Inner and outer bearings were fitted for the torsion bars to pivot on.

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A test assembly of the swing arms showed that, by using a metal cold weld product, a solid mount could be made to mount the torsion bar on the swing arms.

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Inside the swing arm, is a captive nut to hold the wheels on. Two bearings and washers were used on each wheel station, to give a nice smooth ride. IMG_6290.jpeg

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  • Author

Part two.

The return rollers, and idler mounts.

For some reason known only to them selves, Das Werk’s made all the running gear movable, apart from the return rollers. A 3mm drill was used to drill out the mounts, and a piece of brass tube was inserted into the part. A hole was drilled through the hull and a 2mm bolt screwed into the return rollers. This was installed through the hull, the mounting and wheel, giving a nice strong mount. IMG_6303.jpeg

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Next I had to make an adjustable mounting for the idler. As in real life the tracks on models stretch, and need adjustment. This has gone through a few different directions as this part of the transmission takes a high load, as tracks on modern tanks run tight. IMG_6310.jpeg

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This was all tested , and modified as required. Unfortunately the site will not let me download the video. So I have included a link of the first run. If this is not allowed please remove.

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The upper hull has been built as per the kit, with various modifications made where required . This showed that some trimming was required to secondary armour, to clear the track, and that the intended gear boxes would not fit under the upper hull. A second pair of gearboxes were tried, but these had incorrect shaft lengths. I combined the two gearboxes to make a one off pair to fit. IMG_6268.jpeg

With the upper hull mostly complete, the turret turning mechanism was built, using a Heng Long motor, and turret drive ring.

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Next on the agenda was the barrel recoil, and elevation. This involved a lot of sanding, filling, and measuring to fit the gun barrel to the recoil mechanism, which was built up from an old Heng Long air soft frame. The elevation was also fitted, and tested. To be honest I made a rubbish job of the elevating part, and have since replaced it with a better system.

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The smoke and flash unit for the main gun were installed at the same time. As was the flash for the machine gun.

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A sound box was made and fitted with a nice large speaker. Small video during testing, which showed a few issues, which are being addressed.

This is how the model sits today.

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Oeeehh that’s sexy! My late brother was a gunner on one of those. One visiting day i was allowed behind the sticks as 16 yr old boy. Accidentally pushed the periscope rinsers that contained hazardous acid type of fluid. Right into the belly of the soldier who lay on top of it while explaining stuff to me.

That is so cool! This is the kind of work I enjoy seeing!

  • Author

Small update on this. I was unhappy with the gun elevation, as it did not have the elevation, and depression I required. It was also very jerky, and not at all smooth. So I ripped it apart and replaced it.

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One thing, kit manufacturers do not allow for, when making static kits, is how often the upper hull needs to be removed for maintenance, cleaning, and battery charging, if you decide to make one radio controlled. They are so inconsiderate. This was having a detrimental effect on the crew access steps, and four out of the five, had broken off.

A small jig was made, and four steps were made. These were soldered up, with liquid solder, and a small gas torch, and are now able to now swing like the original. These just need cleaning up, and then attaching with the large flats on the hinges.

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