Hi all,

As the build of the Albatros D.III (OEFFAG) is finished, I thought I'd start on the next .

Sopwith 2F.1 Ships Camel, serial N-6764, operating from HMS Lion from April to June 1918.

Mike

Looking forward to your build. I have the same kit and will have a peep on how you tacle the rigging and wood finish.

Cheers Rob

Hi all,

I thought I had posted updates before now.

Obviously not 🤔

So, the cockpit has been completed and fitted into the fuselage/lower wing.

The only modifications so far was the addition of fuselage internal bracing wires.

Also flight control cables and replacement pilots wicker seat.

Mike

Edited August 11Aug 11 by sandbaggeruk

Hi all,

The Bentley BR.1 engine is finished.

The only modification was the addition of the twin ignition leads, not that you can see them when the engine is fitted.

Next up is the preparation for the pre-rigging stage,

Mike

A beautiful engine👍

Hi all,

Although the kit supplied propellers are of good qualify, I chose to use a replacement.

Proper Plane’ wood laminated (WP005) propeller.

Tamiya clear orange was lightly airbrushed over the propeller to give a varnished effect.

The blades were airbrushed with Tamiya Royal Light Grey (XF80).

Final clear coat of semi-matte was airbrushed to seal and protect the paint and decals.

Tamiya Weathering Master Set A (Mud) was lightly sponged across the blades to give a worn effect,

Mike

Lovely work!

Hi all,

Further progress on the Camel.

Model primed then internal structures marked with a brown pencil.

Internal bracing wires lightly marked with a standard pencil.

MRP Clear Doped Linen (MRP-256) airbrushed to fade back the makings.

Aviattic Clear Doped Linen (Bleached) decal was applied to the surfaces.

Kit decals were then applied and painting of details completed.

Landing gear, Vickers cooling jacket, tail skid, engine and cowl were then fitted.

All parts airbrushed with Tamiya Semi-Gloss (X35) to prepare the surfaces for weathering,

Mike

Hi all,

Subtle weathering applied.

Airbrushed the surfaces with a semi-gloss clear coat.

Brushed on Flory Models dark dirt clay wash.

Removed the wash with slightly damp kitchen roll to achieve the weathered effect.

Sponged Tamiya Weathering Master Set D (oil stain) and Set A (mud) around various edges.

Dry brushed Mr. Metal Colour steel on the engine cowl opening and leading edges of fuselage projections.

Now it's onto the rigging preparation and pre-rigging stage,

Mike

Hi all,
In preparation for pre-rigging, I needed to drill rigging holes.
Also to add rigging anchors before assembly continues.
The drilled holes are either 0.2, 0.3 or 04 mm diameter dependent on they're use.
The rigging anchors fitted are the photo-etch HGW 1/32nd scale Spoke Eyelets (132129).
I've taken to using these as I wasn't prepared to keep getting GasPatch metal anchor points.
Those keep turning up with 90% of the parts blocked with metal.
I'd rather not use resin parts either as they can break under strain.
The HGW eyelets are strong enough and can be easily threaded with rigging materials.

Next up is to pre-rig what is necessary before assembly continues,

Mike

Hi all,
The necessary pre-rigging is done for this stage of the build.
Materials used are:
0.08 and 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament.
0.4 and 0.5 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.
The fin/rudder, ailerons and tailplane will be fitted and rigged once the upper wing is on and rigged,

Mike

Hi all,

The fragility of the Camels cabane and interplane struts is well known.

Therefore, before fitting the upper wing. I final rigged most of the landing gear bracing wires.

The colour of the second photograph is due to the ambient lighting.

There is one more horizontal wire to be added, which will be part of the forward flying wire, when rigged,

Mike

Hi all,

The upper wing is fitted.

Next step is to final rig the wings,

Mike

Hi all,

Wing rigging is done.

The photographs are in the order that the rigging was applied to the model.

Cabane strut bracing wires.

Flying wires.

Landing wires.

Incidence wires.

All 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament with 0.4 or 0.5 mm diameter tube.

The four ailerons are now fitted and rigging the aileron control lines is next,

Mike

Hi all,

The aileron, elevator, rudder and tail skid control cables have been rigged.

Just the fin bracing wires to add now,

Mike

The texture effect is amazing. Well done!

Beautiful work 😀

Hi all,

The final bit of rigging is completed.

The fin/tailplane bracing wires.

Again 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament with 0.4 and 0.5 mm diameter tubes.

Now its onto the last few bits to fit:

Lewis machine gun and operating cables.

'Rotherham' pump propeller.

Windscreen.

Propeller.

Wheels.

Fuselage joint fasteners.

Mike

Great work and thank you for the clear instructions on the rigging.

Hi all,

Last few bits added.

Just the aileron control inspection windows to add now,

Mike

Edited August 30Aug 30 by sandbaggeruk

Mike do you find using the mono-filament gives extra stability to the model? My problem with using the rigid stuff over elastic material is when you get one line tightened another may go slack. With my club hands I usually ended up burning a line trying to heat it up to make it tight again.

1 hour ago, Moon Puppy said:

Mike do you find using the mono-filament gives extra stability to the model? My problem with using the rigid stuff over elastic material is when you get one line tightened another may go slack. With my club hands I usually ended up burning a line trying to heat it up to make it tight again.

I´m not Mike, but the mono-filament adds definitely to the strength of the model. I built the huge AEG G.IV and it made the wings very rigid. I loop the thread through an aluminum tube, then through the eylet, which I CAed into the wing or fuselage and again through the burr free aluminum tube. Then I tauten the thread with a pair of tweezers and if you choose the correct diameter of tube and mono filament, it is self securing. Get that done with all the other rigging lines, check for slackening lines and if there are none, add a tiny drop of CA to the aluminum tube for securing the thread, job done.

Cheers Rob

Hi all,
The RNAS pilot figure from Elan13 Miniatures (EL36).
The inside of the coat tails is cast solid.
I chose to drill it out and shape with a straight scalpel.
Not that anyone will see it of course.

That's the model completed apart from the display case.
Then, as usual, I'll post shots.

Once again, thanks for the encouraging comments and support throughout this build,

 Mike

 

9 hours ago, Moon Puppy said:

Mike do you find using the mono-filament gives extra stability to the model? My problem with using the rigid stuff over elastic material is when you get one line tightened another may go slack. With my club hands I usually ended up burning a line trying to heat it up to make it tight again.

Hi Moon Puppy,

Rob (Doc) gave good advice in that it definatly adds structural strength to the wings, landing and tail unit.

Also it never frays, snaps or distorts.

Admittedly, tightening slack lines using heat can be tricky and a steady hand is necessary.

Personally I tend to rig each set of lines (cabane struts, then flying wires then landing wires etc) and heat tighten them as I go.

I use a fairly small electric soldering iron to shrink slack lines.

I've built over 60 1:32nd scale model to date and all are rigged with mono-filament

Unlike photo-etch, stretched sprue or elastic lines, none have altered from finishing the build.

Mike